The Abaya Guide: Cuts, Fabrics, Fit and What to Wear Underneath

The short answer: choose an abaya by cut first, then fabric. A closed abaya is the one-piece everyday classic; an open abaya layers over an inner dress and belts for shape. For daily wear pick nida or crepe (opaque, crease-resistant); for summer linen; for Eid and weddings satin, lace or embroidery. Get the length right with the size guide and stay true to size for full drape.

Abaya cuts: open, closed, kimono, butterfly

An abaya is a long, loose outer robe worn with a separate hijab (definitions of every term are in the glossary). Four cuts cover almost everything on the market:

• Closed abaya — one piece, pulls on or zips at the front. The simplest daily option; nothing to layer, no gaps. Shop closed abayas.
• Open abaya — a front-opening robe worn over an inner dress, slip or trousers and top. The most versatile cut: belt it, leave it loose, layer it. Shop open abayas.
• Kimono abaya — an open abaya with straight, wide kimono sleeves and a relaxed body. Shop kimono abayas.
• Butterfly (batwing) abaya — cut wide from the shoulder so the sleeves fall in one wing-like line; maximum coverage and movement, and a favourite for prayer. Shop butterfly abayas.

Abaya sets pair any of these with a matching hijab (and, in three-piece sets, an inner dress) so tones always align.

Abaya fabrics by season

Two rules of thumb: dark colours in nida and crepe stay looking new longest; anything with sheen (satin, chiffon) is an occasion fabric, not a school-run fabric.

Everyday vs occasion abayas

Everyday abayas are plain, opaque and relaxed — black, stone, mushroom, sage, navy — the pieces that go from work to the mosque without changing. The black abaya is the anchor of any wardrobe. Occasion & Eid abayas add embroidery, beading, lace panels, satin and cape silhouettes; they are worn for Eid, weddings, engagements and the iftars that matter. If you are building from zero: two everyday abayas, one occasion abaya, then expand — see the Ramadan capsule wardrobe.

Fit, length and plus sizes

Abayas run intentionally relaxed. Choose by length first: measure from the top of your shoulder to the floor in the shoes you will wear, then match the closest length in the size guide (most styles come in two or three lengths, and the guide has a height-to-length table). For width, stay true to size for a full drape or size down for a closer line. Extended sizes are grouped in plus size abayas; check the cm chart on each product for bust and hip.

What to wear under an abaya

Under a closed abaya: a light base layer and leggings or a slip in warm weather, a long-sleeve base layer in winter. Under an open abaya: a sleeveless inner dress in a matching or contrast tone (many of our open abayas are sold as sets with the inner dress), or trousers with a long tunic. Sheer fabrics always go over a slip. For prayer, a prayer dress replaces the whole stack.

Styling an abaya

Match the hijab to the abaya's tone family rather than its exact shade — stone with mushroom, sage with olive, navy with dusty blue — and choose the hijab fabric for the occasion: jersey or modal daily, satin or chiffon for events (our hijab fabric guide compares them). A belt turns an open abaya into a dress; a khimar over a closed abaya is the fastest prayer outfit.

Care

Cool wash inside out, hang to dry, no tumble dryer. Nida and crepe need little or no ironing; steam linen while damp; hand wash satin, lace and beaded pieces in a mesh bag. Wash darks together and dry in the shade to keep blacks deep.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between an open and a closed abaya?

An open abaya is a front-opening, cardigan-style robe worn over an inner layer; a closed abaya is a one-piece garment that pulls on or zips. Open styles layer and belt; closed styles are simpler.

Which abaya fabric is best for summer?

Linen, cotton-linen and lightweight crepe. Nida is smooth and crease-resistant but warmer; satin is for evenings.

How do I choose my abaya length?

Measure shoulder to floor in your usual shoes and pick the nearest length in the size guide; if you only know your height, use the height-to-length table.

What do you wear under an abaya?

A slip or inner dress under open and sheer styles; a base layer and leggings under closed styles; a prayer dress replaces all of it for salah.

How many abayas do I need?

Three: one black, one neutral and one occasion piece cover most wardrobes. Add a summer linen and a satin evening abaya as you go.

Related: shop all abayas · jilbab vs abaya vs khimar vs kaftan · glossary.